Sunday, July 27, 2008

Pilot Mtn

Some friends and I went rock climbing at Pilot Mountain. I've been wanting to climb outside but I haven't been to the climbing gym as much as I'd like so I was concerned about how well I'd do. It was my second time climbing outside and my first time climbing at Pilot. The weather held and we were able to get a full day of climbing in. The climbs were pretty hard, for me anyways. The ratings were 5.7-5.8. It was strange how some people who were able to climb one route were not able to climb others.
Here I am assessing the situation. The girls seemed to climb all the routes better. I think it's because they use technique over muscle strength. Most of them could climb all 3 routes.

One of the routes was named chicken bone, and I choked on it and could not get to the top, I was able to climb the route Vegomatic to the left. Here I am going up threw a combination of a crack and chimney.
After just four climbs, all I wanted to do was take a nap. The climbs were 2-3 times longer than the ones in the gym. It was still a fun day.
Routes at Parking Lot section:

Vegomatic 5.8, Climb a chimney to a large ledge at 40 feet. There is a set of
anchors just below the ledge. Continue up the face to the top. 60m rope
necessary if using the upper set of anchors. Bolted anchors.

Chicken Bone 5.7 , Start 10 feet right of the chimney at a small roof. Climb
the face to a ledge, and then continue to the top. The anchors are located 2
feet from the top of the cliff below a tree. 60m rope necessary. Bolted anchors.

Unnamed 5.7 , Start 20 feet right of the chimney behind a large tree. Climb
past a low right facing flake, then up the face to a ledge, pull the overhang and
continue to the top. There are two sets of anchors for this climb. One set is
located on the top of the cliff. The second set is located about 12 feet down
above a small ledge with a tree. 60m rope necessary. Bolted anchors.


  1. Looks like fun! Most of my rock climbing experiance usually included a rod clenched between my teeth praying that I didn't take a swim!

  2. Great shots. Funny thing about rock climbing is the way some routes just work for you and others can be your total nemesis regardless of their grade. In some ways difficulty gradings are kind of b.s. because they are often so subjective. Different types of rock, techniques, and general experience will all effect your climbs. Had a great time this weekend great job on your first rappels and multi-pitch. Can't wait to see your post on that. I'll email you some of the better shots.